A Sewing Project – Vintage Butterick 6852

October 13, 2017 at 4:00 am (Sewing, Vintage Patterns)

I don’t talk as much about my physical disabilities here on the blog anymore because I truly find that focusing on what I CAN do serves me much better.  I can no longer do a “marathon” sewing session because my eyes won’t work together when they are tired (which is why I listen to books on Audible rather than read them). That being said, I’ve been intentional about sewing one hour every day.   But, I’m finding that an hour a day of committed sewing results in some fabulous work!!  My next goal is to add one hour each day with my paintbrush in hand.  I surely can find two hours a day!!  (I’m always a work in progress.)

As I decluttered, I made some rather painful choices-I got rid of about 3/4 of my fabric and 1/2 of my patterns… (Gasp!!! Pain in my heart!!! Will I survive?!?!?!?)

I decided to tackle a vintage Butterick pattern circa 1950’s.  I love the line of this coat, especially the front seaming detail.


I made myself a deal (I can talk myself into many things…) If I’ve sewn 4 projects from my stash, I can purchase a piece of fabric.  And I’ve committed to purchase good fabric.  Unfortunately, Joann Fabric is no longer the place to find good fabric as they’ve moved into the “quilting and crafting” arena.   The fabric I used for this jacket is from Marcy Tilton. The fabric is sold by the 1/2 yard.

I purchased what I thought was enough for this jacket.  The only thing I didn’t take into consideration was that the pattern repeat was about 12 inches.  Ugh… but I was determined to make this jacket because that was my vision so, after about 3 hours of putting the puzzle together (i.e. the pattern pieces) I was able to make it work!! (Thanks Tim Gunn for that phrase!)

One thing to consider when using vintage patterns is their sizing is different even from today’s patterns.  In RTW, I wear a 4-8 depending on the fit.  In modern patterns I wear a 10-14 depending…  In vintage patterns I wear at least an 18!!  Yikes!!  Fortunately for me, I no longer look at sizes even when I’m shopping in the stores.  It’s all about fit!  This pattern, because it isn’t a fitted design has a bit of wiggle room.

My next few paragraphs will get a little technical, so if you want to just look at the pictures, that’s okay!!

One of the problems with fabric yardage and this pattern is that the sleeves and shoulders were included in the back pattern piece.   VintageButterick6852-7

Putting the back and sleeves on with the front required some more puzzle piecing.  The shoulders were actually a dart at the top of the pattern piece.


The piece was sewn into the front pattern piece, topstitched, then the dart was formed for the shoulder.  At that point, the back seam was sewn.  I had to get creative again…  because I had to take the pattern pieces right up to the edge of the salvage, it was showing after sewing the back center seam.  I solved that problem by taking a strip and topstitching it over the seam!

I also had never made a bound button hole before — THAT was another “first” for me!


I lined it — which meant I had to replicate the pattern steps again.  Fortunately I’m a fast learner and that went easier!

Overall I’m very pleased with the finished coat.  I have so many vintage patterns still in my collection and because my mantra is “if I don’t use it, it goes,” that means I must use these patterns.

After I’ve made a few more modern patterns, I will tackle another vintage pattern… because I still have lots to choose from!!


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